Ask Chef Walter: La Befana in Italy. Tradition, Faith, and the Magic – Walter Potenza

On January 6, Italians celebrate the Epiphany, a holiday that brings together Christian faith, old folklore, and joyful family traditions. Called La Festa dell’ Epifania, it marks when Jesus was revealed to the world as the Magi visited him in Bethlehem with gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh. In Italy, this day is also closely linked to La Befana, a friendly old witch who travels by broomstick the night before, leaving treats for children everywhere. I, as many of my friends, looked forward to the day when we were able to receive an additional present, in most cases, tangerines, and the occasional piece of coal reflecting some of the lousy grades in school. But it was a celebration to remember, and to this day, it brings back genuine emotions.

The origins of La Befana blend pagan and Christian elements. Her name derives from “Epifania,” the Italian word for Epiphany, but her image echoes ancient Roman rituals honoring seasonal figures tied to fertility and renewal. One enduring legend tells of an older woman who, busy with her chores, turned away the Magi when they sought directions to the Christ child. Regretting her refusal, she later set out with a basket of sweets to find him but never did. Ever since, on Epiphany Eve (January 5), she searches house to house, leaving candies and small gifts for good children—in case one is the baby Jesus—and lumps of coal (now often sweet, edible “Carbone dolce” made from sugar) for those who’ve been naughty.

For Christians, the Epiphany represents Christ’s revelation to the Gentiles, as shown by the Magi’s visit. Churches hold special masses, processions recreate the Magi’s journey, and homes receive blessings. The tradition of La Befana brings a sense of warmth and fun, sharing lessons about kindness, redemption, and generosity, much like the Magi’s gifts.

In Italian culture, the Epiphany is seen as the real end of the Christmas season, summed up by the saying: “L’Epifania tutte le feste porta via“—” The Epiphany takes all the holidays away.” Families come together for meals; children check their stockings by the fireplace, and towns hold festivals with parades, markets, and bonfires. In Urbania, Marche, known as La Befana’s home, huge celebrations attract crowds with Befanas arriving and lots of joyful activities.

This blend of religious and folk traditions makes the Italian Epiphany a special way to end the holidays. It reminds people of the light of faith during winter and the lasting magic of old stories.

A popular treat for the Epiphany is Befanini, shortbread cookies from Tuscany, especially near Viareggio and Lucca. They are flavored with rum and citrus, cut into fun shapes like stars, brooms, or witches, and decorated with colorful sprinkles.

Traditionally, people bake them on January 5 for La Befana or to share with family the next day. These cookies are easy to make and festive.

Ingredients (makes about 40-50 cookies):

500g (4 cups) all-purpose flour

200g (1 cup) granulated sugar

150g (2/3 cup) unsalted butter, softened

3 eggs (plus one egg white for brushing)

100ml (about 1/3 cup + 1 tbsp) milk

50ml (about 3-4 tbsp) rum (or orange juice for a non-alcoholic version)

Zest of 1 lemon and one orange

10g (2 tsp) baking powder

Pinch of salt

Colored sprinkles or sugar pearls for decoration

In a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.

Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each. Mix in the rum, citrus zests, and milk.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Gradually add to the wet mixture until a soft dough forms (it should not be sticky; add a little more flour if needed).

Wrap the dough in plastic and chill for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F) and line baking sheets with parchment paper.

Roll out the dough on a floured surface to about 5mm (1/4 inch) thick. Use cookie cutters to make festive shapes.

Place on the baking sheets, brush with lightly beaten egg white, and decorate with sprinkles.

Bake for 8-12 minutes, until lightly golden (do not overbake—they should stay pale).

Cool on a rack. Store in an airtight container; they keep well for several days.

These buttery, fragrant cookies go well with coffee or sweet wine and bring a bit of Tuscan Epiphany tradition to your table.