Ask Chef Walter: My Christmas in Abruzzo from Afar – Walter Potenza

by Chef Walter Potenza, contributing writer

The scent of roasted chestnuts fills the air, mingling with the crispness of winter and the laughter that echoes through the ancient streets of home.

Friends:

The faint aroma of baccalà simmering on the stove wraps around me as I dial into the video call. On screen, my sister Donatella moves with rhythm, expertly folding saffron into the broth, a tradition that wafts nostalgically across the miles. Growing up in Abruzzo during the late 1960s was both joyful and stimulating, surrounded by genuine friends and a family that did their best for us three children. As Christmas 2025 approaches, I experience a complex mix of emotions, particularly because I am unable to return home due to scheduling constraints.

For Italians, ‘home’ is deeply connected to one’s birthplace, and after many years in the United States, the holiday season intensifies the sense of distance. Sitting in my living room, surrounded by decorations from past celebrations, I initiated a video call with my family in Abruzzo. The screen fills with familiar faces and laughter, which, while comforting, cannot fully replace the warmth of their physical presence.

This virtual connection evokes both a bittersweet sense of togetherness and vivid memories of holidays spent together. Across the globe, from Toronto to Melbourne, kitchens hum with the same saffron broth, connecting Abruzzesi abroad with our shared heritage. Today, I wish to share some of Abruzzo’s culinary traditions for the Christmas season, in hopes of keeping these cherished moments alive in spirit.

Abruzzo features ancient villages, historic castles, a scenic coastline, cities renowned for their art, expansive natural parks, and pristine mountains. This diverse landscape is mirrored in the region’s rich and varied gastronomy. During Christmas, local products fill the tables of the Abruzzesi, who maintain a longstanding agro-pastoral tradition. The holiday cuisine encompasses dishes that reflect both the pastoral heritage of the hinterland and the maritime influences of the coast, consistently utilizing authentic and diverse ingredients.

Traditional dishes, prepared from original recipes handed down through generations, allow one to experience ancient flavors in their unadorned richness. On December 24, the ritual of preparing fish takes center stage, particularly salted cod (baccalà). From the crackling of the first fish-in-egg batter at dawn to the shared debates over the right amount of saffron in the broth, each moment punctuates the day with tradition.

The familial rhythm creates an orchestrated dance of culinary artistry — the kitchen buzzing with excitement, laughter, and the occasional playful argument about whether the cod is better fried or poached. Salted cod is prepared in various ways: baked with potatoes, combined with tomato, peppers, and olives, fried in egg batter, poached in saffron broth, or served as a salad. Other specialties include monkfish, oven-baked capitone (female eel) with laurel sauce, and squid salad with onion, carrots, parsley, celery, potatoes, and olives. Unlike the Americanized ‘Feast of the Seven Fishes,’ these dishes are not served in a single evening but are enjoyed throughout the month leading up to the Vigil on the 24th.

Fresh anchovies from the coast are another cornerstone of Abruzzo’s maritime culinary tradition. These anchovies are fried in an egg-and-flour batter, dipped in vinegar, and garnished with minced garlic and parsley. Imagine the familiar comfort of New York-style pizza, celebrated for its thin crust and anchovy toppings, merging with Abruzzo’s version, where each bite is a harmonious balance of crispy batter and tangy vinegar, brightened by aromatic garlic and parsley. In the mountainous regions, particularly around Aquila, tradition includes seven distinct soups: lentils, fried cabbage, chickpeas, white rice, pasta with tuna, capitone, and cod. Such a meal is ideally accompanied by a glass of DOC white wine, such as Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, which is primarily produced in Chieti, L’Aquila, Pescara, and Controguerra in Teramo.

Among the first courses, scrippelle ‘mbusse and Abruzzese-style lasagna are particularly notable. Scrippelle ‘mbusse are thin crepes made from flour, eggs, and water, rolled and served in beef and turkey broth, then topped with Parmigiano or Pecorino cheese. Abruzzese lasagna, also known as timballo, is a layered dish featuring crepes, meat sauce, smoked cheese, and chopped hard-boiled eggs. Additional Christmas lunch offerings include chestnut and chickpea soup, thistle soup, and rintrocilo, a long egg pasta served with mountain mutton and pork in tomato ragu.

Inland, meat is the primary focus, frequently accompanied by trays of steaming, locally grown baked potatoes. The selection ranges from pork loin with plums and stuffed veal rollè to various roasted meats, turkey alla Canzanese with a rich glaze, and slow-roasted lamb seasoned with olive oil, salt, pepper, sage, parsley, lard, and onion. These dishes are complemented by DOC Abruzzo red and white wines, including Pinot Nero, Cerasuolo, and Pecorino. The holiday table is often distinguished by Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a wine recognized with numerous international awards. Enjoying these meals, the Montepulciano, with its notes of cherry and spice, frequently evokes memories of family toasts around the festive table, where laughter blended with the aromas, enhancing both the experience and the recollections.

Desserts serve as a vivid testament to Abruzzo’s confectionery tradition. During Christmas, Parrozzo stands out as the centerpiece, representing the Abruzzesi counterpart to Panettone and Pandoro. Celebrated by the poet D’Annunzio for its excellence, Parrozzo is crafted from cornmeal and almond flour, baked in a hemispherical mold, and coated with dark chocolate. Slicing through its glossy exterior, the chocolate shell cracks audibly, revealing a tender and fragrant interior. Yet, there’s a small, endearing fear each time: what if the shell cracks unevenly, marring its perfect dome? This vulnerability only amplifies the joy when it is cut just right, encapsulating the spirit of an Abruzzesi Christmas and encouraging indulgence and the sharing of this enduring tradition. Additional sweets include ravioli-shaped calzone, made with crumbly dough and filled with chestnut, cinnamon, honey, dried fruit, and chocolate.

Each province, and even the smallest communities, offers its own distinctive Christmas sweets, including sfogliatelle prepared differently from the Neapolitan style, mostaccioli, bocconotti, ferratelle, chocolate torrone, pepatelli, and others. As the festive season unfolds and I reflect from a distance, I can almost hear the crackle and pop of warm treats sizzling in the pan. I can picture a table laden with vivid culinary delights, their scents mingling in the cool winter air. Next year’s celebrations promise not just a reunion with these beloved flavors but a new anticipation of sharing a meal that brings us together. Imagine the first bite of Parrozzo, its rich dark chocolate shell crackling under the knife, a sensory promise that bridges time and distance. May the spirit of hope and unity sustain us until that moment arrives, leaving a taste of Abruzzo lingering on our tongues as we dream of what is to come.

Among the many delectable recipes, I am sharing one my sister makes with great care.

Scrippelle’ Mbusse (Crepes in Broth)

This is the ultimate comfort food from Teramo and the nearby territory. These are not the sweet French crepes you might imagine, but delicate, thin egg crepes bathed in a rich, golden chicken broth. It is elegant in its simplicity and profoundly soothing. It can be classified as a pasta course or a zuppa depending on preference. The secret to thin scrippelle is a well-seasoned pan and just enough batter to coat the bottom. Swirl quickly! Always use your best homemade broth.

Ingredients (for the Scrippelle):

4 large eggs

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup whole milk

A pinch of salt

Butter for the pan

Freshly grated Pecorino cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

2 quarts rich chicken broth

Instructions:

Whisk the eggs, flour, milk, and salt until you have a very smooth, thin batter. Let it rest for 30 minutes. Heat a small non-stick skillet (about 8 inches) over medium heat. Lightly butter it. Pour in a small ladleful of batter, quickly swirling the pan to coat the bottom thinly.

Cook for about 1 minute until the top is set, and the bottom is lightly spotted. Flip and cook for another 20 seconds. Remove to a plate. Repeat with the remaining batter. As you stack them, you can sprinkle each scrippella with a little grated Pecorino and black pepper, then roll them up like a cigar, or simply leave them flat. Heat the broth until steaming hot. Place 2-3 rolled or folded scrippelle in each bowl, then ladle piping-hot broth over them. Serve immediately.

Buon Natale to all!

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Meet Chef Walter!

There is a constant, recognizable thread in the career of Walter Potenza to elevate the level of Italian culinary culture in the United States. Besides his unquestionable culinary talent and winning business perspective, Chef Walter has been a relentless educator with passion and knowledge who defeats stereotypes. His life, career, and values are a model, an example to follow by any chef of Italian gastronomy working outside Italy.

Chef Walter appears regularly on National and International Networks such as Food Network, ABC, CBS, NBC, RAI, FOX, and Publications such as NY. Times, Washington Post, Wall Street Journal, Food & Wine, Saveur, Gourmet, and several Italian media outlets.  And now – RINewsToday!