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Ask Chef Walter: Easter Pastiera – Chef Walter Potenza
Photo, top: Pastiera image attribution consent via Scialo, Federal Hill, Providence
Friends and readers of RINT:
As we approach the Easter sanctity, I like to share a wonderful Pastiera recipe from the Pintauro Pastry shop in Naples, Italy. The legendary bakery also invented the first Neapolitan Sfogliatella.
In the historic core of Naples, a captivating narrative unfolds, akin to the alluring fragrance of freshly baked Pastiera. This delectable treat has evolved into an Easter tradition revered within Italy and beyond its borders. Today, I am delighted to unveil the authentic recipe and its contextual origins, offering insight into the genesis of this cherished delicacy.
Creamy, fragrant, and utterly irresistible, the Pastiera embodies the essence of spring with its blend of short-crust pastry, ricotta, cooked wheat, candied fruit, and hints of orange blossom. While the ingredients are familiar, each Pastiera possesses its unique character—some softer, others denser, each infused with a distinctive medley of flavors depending on the choice of candied fruit and ricotta.
The Pastiera’s origins intertwine with myths and legends, none more enchanting than the tale of Parthenope, the mermaid of Naples. Legend has it that Parthenope emerged from the depths each spring, captivating the locals with her ethereal songs. In gratitude, the people offered her wheat, ricotta, eggs, and fragrant spices. Parthenope, in turn, presented these offerings to the gods, who combined them to create the divine confection we now know as Pastiera.
Another legend whispers of a queen who found joy amid solemnity—the “queen who never smiles,” Maria Theresa of Austria. It’s said that King Ferdinand I of Bourbon, eager to elicit a smile from his solemn wife, introduced her to the joys of Pastiera. According to lore, the dessert’s origins trace back to the humble gestures of fishermen’s wives, who left offerings by the sea to ensure their husbands’ safe return.
Amidst these tales lies a kernel of truth: the Pastiera, as we recognize it today, took shape in the kitchens of the Church of San Gregorio Armeno during the Renaissance. A nun’s inspired fusion of Christian symbolism and exotic spices birthed the iconic dessert within the convent’s hallowed walls. Initially reserved for the elite, these pastiere soon became a symbol of Naples, eagerly awaited and cherished by all during Holy Week.
Thus, the Pastiera transcends mere pastry—it is a testament to tradition, a fusion of myth and flavor that continues to captivate hearts and palates alike, ensuring its place as an enduring icon of Neapolitan culture.
Follow me in the kitchen to make the Pastiera!
Pastiera Napoletana Original Recipe from Pintauro (Naples)
Ingredients for a 9-inch pie plate
Short-crust pastry Ingredients
10 2/3 oz of plain all-purpose flour
1 tbsp of sugar
5 1/3 oz of unsalted butter
One egg (organic)
5 1/16 fl oz of water
Confectioner’s sugar for dusting
Filling Ingredients
12 1/3 oz of grano cotto (Cooked wheat, Barley, or Arborio rice)
1/2 pint of whole milk
1 1/16 oz of unsalted butter
One lemon, zest only
Two eggs (organic)
Two egg yolks
10 2/3 oz of sugar
12 1/3 oz of fresh ricotta
1 1/2 oz of candied citron
1 1/2 oz of candied peel orange
3/4 oz of orange blossom water
1/4 tsp vanilla paste, or in liquid form (adjust accordingly)
Directions
To start, let’s prepare the pastry. Combine the flour, sugar, and butter in a medium-sized bowl. To create the perfect mixture, use your fingertips to rub the ingredients together until they appear like breadcrumbs. This simple technique ensures that the ingredients are evenly distributed, producing a delicious final product. Give it a try and see the difference for yourself! Then, incorporate the egg and knead the mixture until it forms a cohesive dough.
Add bottled water until the dough comes together, but do not overdo it. Shape the prepared dough into a round and wrap it in cling film. Refrigerate it for at least an hour to firm up. While the dough chills, prepare the filling. Combine the grano cotto, milk, butter, and lemon zest in a saucepan.
Begin the process by bringing the mixture to a boil and reducing the heat to a simmer until the grano cotto has reached an optimal state of readiness. This process typically takes between 20 to 25 minutes. Once the grano cotto has been cooked, set the mixture aside, allowing it to cool to an appropriate temperature.
Whisk the eggs and sugar together in a separate bowl until they become pale and creamy. Next, blend the ricotta cheese until it reaches a whipped cream-like consistency. Then, gently fold the prepared mixture into the egg and sugar using a rubber spatula.
Combine the cooled grano cotto mixture, candied peel, orange flower water, and vanilla bean paste with the ricotta mixture, stirring until well combined. Set this filling aside for now.
Preheat your oven to 320°F. Grease a 9-inch pie pan with butter.
Roll out the pastry evenly on a clean, floured surface. Carefully line the cake tin with the rolled-out pastry, ensuring it covers the bottom and sides. With a dining fork, prick the pastry base and pour in the prepared filling, trimming any excess pastry from the edges for a tidy finish.
Place any leftover pastry into a ball and roll it out evenly. Using a pasta wheel, cut the rolled-out pastry into eight strips long enough to cover the Pastiera. Arrange four strips across the top of the Pastiera in one direction and the remaining four diagonally to create a diamond pattern.
With a kitchen scissor, trim the edges of the strips to fit the tin and bake the Pastiera in the preheated oven for approximately 1 hour. After an hour, cover the top with foil and bake for an additional 30 minutes. Allow the Pastiera to cool completely in the tin before carefully removing it.
Serve the Pastiera chilled, accompanied by a delicious Italian espresso coffee. It’s a delightful Easter breakfast, sweet afternoon tea, or dessert treat.
{Pastiera Image Attribution consent via Scialo on Federal Hill, Providence}