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Ask Chef Walter: Zeppoles! – Chef Walter Potenza
by Executive Chef Walter Potenza
Friends:
This week, I have been swamped responding to the Zeppole questions. I think publishing a brief article on its history and an original recipe may help alleviate the task.
The Zeppole of San Giuseppe is a beloved Neapolitan dessert that has gained popularity throughout Italy and the world, especially among immigrant communities and their families. This cherished delicacy is traditionally prepared and enjoyed across Italy on Father’s Day, celebrated on March 19th. It emphasizes Naples’s culinary significance in Italy’s cultural heritage. Multiple legends obscure the historical attribution of the invention of zeppoles, echoing the customary ambiguity that enshrouds the origins of many pastry creations. Discovering the true origins becomes a pleasant ritual for chefs such as myself.
The evidence of fried dough pastry dates back to ancient Rome. It is believed to have originated during the celebration of Liberalia in 500 BC, a festival honoring Bacchus and Silenus. During the festivities, people would indulge in large amounts of wine and enjoy fragrant wheat fritters fried in ample amounts of boiling lard. Alternative narratives suggest a linkage between Zeppole and agricultural rituals conducted in southern regions of Italy on March 19th, signifying the conclusion of winter and the onset of spring. Celebrants would gather around bonfires, indulging in fritters resembling coiled serpents, symbolizing renewal and fertility, drizzled with local honey or salt.
A Christian legend intertwines Zeppole’s genesis with the Holy Family’s flight to Egypt. According to this lore, Saint Joseph, in supporting Mary and Jesus, supplemented his carpentry trade with street vending, peddling sweet pancakes. Subsequently, a confluence emerged between Zeppole and the commemorative festival honoring Saint Joseph, fostering the tradition of street vendors, or “zeppolari,” in Naples. Notably, during his visit to Naples in the late 18th century, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe documented the vibrant street scenes where vendors prepared and sold zeppoles.
The formal inception of the zeppola di San Giuseppe dates back to 1837, when Ippolito Cavalcanti, a notable Neapolitan gastronome, included the inaugural recipe in the Neapolitan dialect within his culinary treatises. However, the contemporary recipe is believed to owe its refinement to the renowned Pasticceria Pintauro. Known as the seminal figure in Neapolitan pastry craftsmanship, Pintauro is notably associated with creating the original Neapolitan Sfogliatella.
Drawing inspiration from ancient Roman culinary practices and Cavalcanti’s directives, Pintauro enhanced the traditional recipe by incorporating ingredients such as eggs, lard, and aromatic essences. The hallmark of the modern Zeppole entails a dual frying process, initially in oil followed by lard, culminating in a delectable custard filling crowned with succulent black cherries. In contemporary culinary discourse, alongside the conventional fried Zeppole, a trend exists towards lighter baked variants, reflecting evolving preferences for shape and dietary considerations.
However, purists and venerable figures in Neapolitan pastry craftsmanship adamantly uphold the sanctity of the fried Zeppole, insisting on the exclusive use of lard for frying. Thus, adhering to tradition, preparing the traditional fried San Giuseppe zeppole remains emblematic of culinary homage to Naples’ cultural legacy.
Here is the fried version of Zeppole.
(Original Recipe from Pintauro in Naples, Italy)
Zeppole – Italian Round Doughnuts (Steps)
Ingredients
1 cup water
8 Tablespoons unsalted butter (1/2 cup)
3 Tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon of sea salt
1 cup all-purpose flour, or (00 Type)
Four eggs (large)
Oil for frying (lard, vegetables, canola, or peanut oil)
Powdered sugar (to dust the Zeppole)
Directions
Let’s make some delicious Zeppole! Follow me in the kitchen!
Grab a saucepan and combine water, butter, sugar, and salt. Cook until the butter is melted. Add at once and mix vigorously with a wooden spoon until you achieve a dough, and shape into a ball. Keep cooking for a minute or two until it pulls away from the side of the saucepan.
Transfer the dough to a standing mixer. Wait to mix with a paddle attachment until no steam rises from the bowl. The procedure allows the dough to chill slightly. Add eggs one at a time and mix until they are fully incorporated. By the way, if you don’t have a standing mixer, don’t worry! You can mix the dough by hand or use a hand-held mixer.
Now, let’s move on to frying the Zeppole. Pour enough lard, oil, or fat of choice into a vast, thick-bottom pot (like a Dutch oven or similar) to have at least 2 inches of oil. Heat the oil to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Transfer the rich dough to a large pastry bag, and slowly pipe out the dough into the oil. You can also use two small coffee spoons to drop dough rounds into the oil or a small portion of the ice cream scoop. Just be careful not to splash yourself!
Keep the temperature above 350 degrees Fahrenheit at all times, preferably 360-375 degrees Fahrenheit. Fry the zeppole dough for about 5 to 7 minutes while turning over the ones that don’t turn themselves over. When they are ready, use a slotted spoon to remove them from them and place them on a paper towel-lined plate or a baking sheet.
Finally, dust your Zeppole with powdered sugar and enjoy! Remember to share with your friends and family.
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NOTE: All Zeppole pics are proprietary to Chef Walter (Roma Gourmet Foods, Federal Hill, Providence) and have been authorized for use by RINewsToday.
