Ask Chef Walter: The Tuscan Cibreo – Chef Walter Potenza

by Executive Chef Walter Potenza, contributing writer

The Tuscan crostini, a delicacy from the heart of Florence.

Friends:

Tuscany is known for its rich culinary traditions that capture the simplicity and earthy flavors of the region. Among the many delectable dishes of Florence, cibreo stands out as a unique and historical preparation, often served on crostini. This humble yet flavorful dish hails from a time when every part of the animal was used, and it encapsulates the region’s philosophy of “cucina povera” — a cuisine born from necessity but enriched by creativity.

This dish was a favorite among our participants of the recent Tuscany culinary tourism tour in September 2024.

What is Cibreo?

Cibreo is a creamy, savory sauce made from chicken livers, eggs, and, traditionally, cockscombs. The dish traces its roots back to the Renaissance period and is said to have been a favorite of Caterina de Medici, the Queen of France who hailed from Florence. Over time, it became a staple of Tuscan cuisine, often served atop crispy crostini as an appetizer.

The beauty of cibreo lies in its ability to transform simple and often overlooked ingredients into something utterly luxurious. Chicken livers, often considered a humble or rustic part of the bird, are elevated in this dish through careful cooking and rich flavors like sage and nutmeg.

The sauce or spread has deep historical roots in Tuscan culture. When food scarcity was common, families used every part of an animal. Chickens, being relatively easy to raise, provided not only meat and eggs but also other edible parts like the liver, heart, and even the cockscomb—the fleshy crest on the heads of male chickens.

Though it may sound unusual today, cockscomb was highly prized for its gelatinous texture and ability to absorb flavors. For centuries, cibreo represented the resourcefulness of Tuscan cooking, turning what might be considered scraps into a velvety, flavorful dish.

Over the years, the use of cockscombs has diminished in home cooking, though some traditional Tuscan kitchens still use them. The modern version of cibreo focuses on chicken livers, eggs, and a few aromatic herbs, making it more accessible while retaining the dish’s historical charm.

Cibreo is typically served warm on slices of toasted bread called crostini. These small bites are a typical appetizer in Tuscan meals, perfect for starting a meal with a burst of flavor. The smooth, rich texture of cibreo pairs beautifully with the crunch of toasted Tuscan bread, often prepared without salt to complement the dish’s savory richness.

In many traditional Florentine trattorias, you’ll find crostini with cibreo on the menu, served as part of an antipasto spread alongside other dishes like pappa al pomodoro or ribollita. It may also be used as a filling for ravioli or paired with polenta in more creative interpretations.

Here’s a tested recipe for cibreo on crostini.

While cibreo has historically used various parts of the chicken, this recipe focuses on chicken livers and eggs to keep it simple yet authentic. Adding sage, garlic, and a hint of nutmeg brings the earthy flavors of Tuscany to life.

Ingredients:

• 400g (14 oz) of fresh chicken livers, cleaned and trimmed
• Three egg yolks (optional)
• Two tablespoons of olive oil
• One small onion, finely chopped
• One clove of garlic, minced
• One sprig of fresh sage, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup of dry white wine (preferably Tuscan)
• A pinch of nutmeg
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Tuscan bread, sliced and toasted (for crostini)
• Extra virgin olive oil (for drizzling)

Directions

1. Prepare the Chicken Livers
   Begin by cleaning the chicken livers and removing any veins or connective tissue. Trim off any excess fat. Pat the livers dry with paper towels and set aside. Spend considerable time in this process, as not well-cleaned livers will deliver an unpleasant bitterness and chewy texture.
2. Cook the Aromatics
   In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the finely chopped onion and garlic, cooking slowly until they soften and become translucent about 5-7 minutes. Be careful not to brown them; you want a gentle flavor base for the cibreo.
3. Sear the Chicken Livers
   Add the cleaned chicken livers to the pan, cooking them on all sides until they are browned on the outside but still pink on the inside. This should take about 3-4 minutes. The key is to avoid overcooking, as the livers can become tough.
4. De-glaze with Wine
   Pour in the white wine and let it simmer, allowing the alcohol to evaporate and the flavors to concentrate. As the wine reduces, it will meld with the chicken livers and aromatics to create a rich, savory base.
5. Add Sage and Seasonings
   Add the finely chopped sage, a pinch of nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir to combine all the ingredients, allowing the sage to release its aroma into the dish.
6. Finish with Egg Yolks
   In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the egg yolks, combining them gently with the chicken livers. The residual heat will cook the yolks, creating a creamy, luxurious texture without scrambling the eggs.
7. Serve on Crostini
   Slice the Tuscan bread and toast it until golden and crispy. Drizzle each slice with a bit of extra virgin olive oil. Spoon the warm cibreo onto the crostini, spreading it evenly. Garnish with a few fresh sage leaves for a touch of color.

Serving suggestions:

Cibreo crostini are best served warm, perhaps with olives or marinated vegetables. For a true Tuscan experience, pair the dish with a glass of Chianti or a Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

The last word!

Cibreo is more than just a dish; it is a testament to Tuscan ingenuity and reverence for simple, hearty ingredients. By mastering the art of this historical delicacy, you’ll be bringing a piece of Florence’s rich culinary past into your kitchen, honoring the rustic yet refined flavors that have shaped Italian cuisine for centuries.

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Meet Chef Walter!

There is a constant, recognizable thread in the career of Walter Potenza to elevate the level of Italian culinary culture in the United States. Besides his unquestionable culinary talent and winning business perspective, Chef Walter has been a relentless educator with passion and knowledge who defeats stereotypes. His life, career, and values are a model, an example to follow by any chef of Italian gastronomy working outside Italy.  

Chef Walter appears regularly on National and International Networks such as Food Network, ABC, CBS, NBC, RAI, FOX, and Publications such as NY. Times, Washington Post, Wall Street Journal, Food & Wine, Saveur, Gourmet, and several Italian media outlets.  And now – RINewsToday!