Ask Chef Walter: The Tastemaker – Chef Walter Potenza

by Chef Walter Potenza, contributing writer

Photo, top: Emil Fioravanti, (first left) sister Norma Giordano, Parents Joseph and Ida Fioravanti, 1977 – Chef Walter

This is the remarkable story of Emil A. Fioravanti, a visionary whose passion, mentorship, and dedication transformed and inspired generations within the Rhode Island culinary scene.

Friends:

In this new edition of Flavors and Knowledge, I aim to honor the pioneering individuals who have preceded me and paved the way for an enriched understanding of flavor, tradition, and community. Their narratives exemplify the transformative power of perseverance, passion, and the enduring influence of cultural heritage. By illuminating their accomplishments, I aspire to inspire readers to recognize the substantial impact of those who dedicate their lives to enhancing our collective experiences through food, culture, and the shared enjoyment of dining together. Let us commemorate their legacy and advance their spirit of innovation and generosity, ensuring their contributions inspire future generations.

Upon my arrival in Providence in 1972, I took residence on Atwells Avenue with a cousin. This dynamic thoroughfare would soon serve as the setting for a significant personal and professional journey. At that time, I was largely unaware of the rich history and cultural legacy established by the early Italian settlers, who brought their culinary traditions and a strong sense of community and family values, significantly influencing the neighborhood. Although I recognized that southern Italians predominantly populated the area, I had yet to fully comprehend the extent of their contributions and the intricate cultural tapestry they had developed over the decades. Only several years later, as my career in the hospitality industry progressed and I established multiple restaurants, I began to explore the narratives of those who had paved the way before me.

I had the pleasure of meeting Emilio (Emil A.) Fioravanti one afternoon at Pastiche’s pastry shop on Spruce Street in Providence in 1994, shortly after Emil’s dear wife of 46 years, Evelyn, passed away. As I embarked on renovating my new restaurant, La Locanda del Coccio, my landlord, Alan Costantino, graciously invited me to join him and Emilio for an early discussion. Alan was preparing to launch the new Venda Salumeria and sought someone with substantial expertise to oversee the front of the store. Alan was known for the fresh pasta business, and running a gourmet store was a novelty. Emilio was being considered for a return from retirement and hopefully lead the new concept, tapping Emilio’s vast food industry expertise and network in Providence.

Evelyn and Emil Fioravanti

Our conversation truly captivated me as we explored food, culture, history, and the joys of dining. What particularly stood out to me was Emilio’s proficiency in grammatical Italian, which was not a practice always shared among the immigrant community in the area. While many mainly spoke Sicilian, Calabrian, or Neapolitan dialects, Emilio’s elegant and articulate communication manner left a lasting impression because I did not use dialect and was relieved someone spoke like me. His family came from Tuscany, the cradle of the Italian language, a language that is a means of communication, a symbol of our cultural heritage, and a connection to our ancestors since the early Middle Ages.

Federal Hill is the center of Providence’s Italian-American community and a cultural epicenter of one of America’s oldest colonies. Providence has become one of America’s leading culinary destinations. This recognition compels a reflection on the relentless efforts of the pioneers who established the groundwork for this accomplishment. These individuals transcended the roles of restaurateurs, food shop owners, food purveyors, and pushcart guardians; they served as educators, cultural ambassadors, and visionaries. Through their endeavors, they introduced countless American consumers to the artistry of Italian cuisine, the essence of hospitality, and the importance of communal dining through flavors and simplicity. Their unwavering commitment to preserving and disseminating the traditions of la Vera Cucina Italiana has transformed Federal Hill into a symbol of culinary excellence and cultural pride.

It reminds us of the importance of preserving our cultural heritage, connecting us to our roots, and fostering respect for our ancestors. As readers, you play a crucial role in this preservation, ensuring that Emil A. Fioravanti’s legacy and others like him continue to inspire and enrich our lives.

Let’s take a moment to journey back in time!

Located in the vibrant, energetic heart of Providence’s Federal Hill district—where cobblestone streets once beautifully intertwined with the sweet aroma of freshly baked bread, in perfect harmony with friendly, vibrant Italian conversation, creating a beautifully enchanting atmosphere—stood a venerable institution in the form of Fioravanti’s Market. It was much, much more than a grocery store; it was a living, vibrant tribute to innumerable generations marked by unyielding dedication, tireless drive, and, most of all, an intense and immensely valued pride, with a rich, rich taste similar to a delicately seasoned tomato sauce one could have ever hoped to experience. The glorious narrative of this cherished heritage began in the early 1940s when Giuseppe “Joe” Fioravanti took a bold gamble and started “J.W. Fioravanti & Son.” In that lively place, the Fioravanti family embraced everyone with open arms, and the community’s warmth radiated like the comfort of a hearty Italian second course.

Fioravanti’s Market, 1960

Do you remember when grocery stores with self-service options felt like magical kingdoms, much like when humanity first landed on the moon?

Joe entered a decidedly unorthodox field, planting a seed for an unprecedented journey in and around buying and selling food that, when completed in full, would incontestably redefine the culinary face of New England in a meaningful and lasting manner.

Emil, a man of unparalleled devotion and vigor, took over the family concern. His intensity was like a strong double shot of espresso, driving him to sell Italian gastronomic items and present an accurate and palpable doorway to Italy in each carefully considered offering, all free of additional cost, with a free bonus in the form of a big, warm, and genuine hospitality thrown in for free.

At that time, there were remarkably few great food articles in Rhode Island, especially compared to today’s vast array. New Englanders had yet to discover olive oil, as their upbringing centered around Anglo-Saxon diets where butter and lard were the fats of choice. Embracing new flavors and culinary experiences transformed their relationship with authentic and reliable choices.

Emil was born in 1926 to his father Giuseppe and doting mother Ida, growing up in a tight-knit immigrant family. Work ethic and family heritage were deeply instilled in their daily lives, such as the closely guarded family sauce recipe handed down through the ages. Born to a young Giuseppe, a native of Prato, a small city west of Florence, who braved a trip to America during a bitter winter in 1921 with little but a mere 40 Lire and a dream for a brighter future, Joe joined his two brothers Palmiro and Ezio in America, weaving in his part into America’s vibrant tapestry, first arriving in Connecticut and then finding an adopted forever home in the rich tapestry of cultures that is the Ward 3 Federal Hill.

Here in vibrant Little Italy, Joe saw the richness of a community filled with fellow Italians, fellow immigrants of Irish heritage, and many other fellow immigrants desperate for a little bit of the Old Country. In no time, the store he started became a go-to for those searching for a little Italian and homestyle comfort in a dish. During his early years, Emil absorbed it all in—watching closely as his dad painstakingly arranged a selection of salumi, tasty cheeses, eclectic condiments, and such, with a level of care and detail that even a seasoned chef couldn’t have hoped for.

Emil and Giuseppe Fioravanti, 1976

There was even a rumor that Emil could, with a single bite, discern the milk composition of Roman, Sardinian, or Tuscan Pecorino cheese—now that’s having a sixth sense in the gustatory gland apparatus.

For Emil, Italian food was more than sustenance; it was a tapestry of stories, heritage, and the seamless harmony of regional flavors. Each dish carried its narrative, waiting to be shared. Whether sourcing dry legumes, perfect chestnuts, or rare spices, Emil transformed his marketplace into a stage for culinary storytelling. For over four decades, his store was not merely a place to shop but an immersive experience. With his warm demeanor and encyclopedic Knowledge, a simple visit became a sensory journey to Italy, all within the familiar embrace of Federal Hill.

Fioravanti’s was more than a grocery store; it was the heart of the community. Patrons did not come solely for fresh meats, handmade pasta, or coveted Italian imports but for the camaraderie, laughter, and sense of belonging fostered within its walls. Emil himself embodied this spirit. Charismatic and multilingual—fluent in five languages—he brought a passion for opera, literature, film, and sports into every interaction. Much like his store, he was a living mosaic of culture and connection, enriching all who crossed his path. Suffice it to say…Emil’s market became a candy store for gourmands.

But life took a sharp and unpredictable turn in 1944 when Emil received orders for induction into the U.S. Army. As a medical and surgical technician, he saw himself amid rough and arduous battles—tending mangled and wounded GIs who fought valiantly and with unyielding fortitude, and even tending captured enemy POWs at times—with dignity and humanity that could evoke feelings of jealousy, even in a mere mortal (perhaps a mere mortal-turned-superhero, at least in a figurative and metaphorical sense!). Returning in 1946, their long-standing desire for a medical career lay temporarily in abeyance in preference for a more immediate purpose: one that involved tending to his cherished dad and community with a level of devotion and dedication unparalleled anywhere else in the universe.

Emil Fioravanti, 1944

In 1947, Emil blissfully started down the path of marriage with lovely Evelyn, and soon enough, the two of them produced five little ones for an ever-growing family circle. Even with household chores multiplied and the family growing larger, Emil’s unwavering dedication to store and community continued unabated and resilient.

Under meticulous and protective care, store offerings in various forms grew and developed, soon earning a glittering name for the finest and most authentic Italian culinary treats and specialties in town. Long-standing store stalwart Fred Principe, Sr.—a gentleman whose master butchering skills and deep knowledge of meat and poultry—quickly became a name in and of himself in the community, slicing and preparing premium and expertly prepared cuts of meat, Italian specialties in sausage form, and mouthwatering antipasto platters that upgraded family dinners and socials into unforgettable and gastronomic celebrations.

The tastemaker Emil, behind his beloved counter at Fioravanti.

From a young age, Emil’s kids were initiated and educated in and about the value of working diligently and purposefully. On a warm summer morning, when they reached age 10, they took a summer- and after-school camping trip to the thriving marketplace with high spirits and a willingness to learn valuable lessons in accountability, respect, and ever-elusive ingredients for success. That strong work ethic instilled in them was not a model to follow regarding entrepreneurial conduct but an integral blueprint guiding many successive generations of the Fioravanti family. That heritage was preserved with careful devotion, like a family heirloom, underlining heritage and unrelenting tenacity.

The energetic and vibrant years of the 1970s and early 1980s saw Emil working closely with friends and confidantes Frank and Jean D’Antuono, owners of Ideal Market, located in its famous location in the vibrant heart of Rhode Island’s famous Atwells Avenue. Emil and two friends started a journey of planning and strategizing brilliant moves to outwit larger big-box stores that then dominated Rhode Island’s retail environment.

They inspired those around them by showing that traditional techniques, honed over centuries, can not only endure but also flourish when infused with creativity and innovation, ultimately meeting the needs of communities.

In the mid-1980s, at 60, Emil faced a pivotal moment. With courage and conviction, he chose to retire, granting himself a well-deserved break from a career he had cherished. 1986 Emil sold the family-owned real estate property, reluctantly embracing retirement. His decision reflected personal clarity and an awareness of the changing community and the evolving consumption landscape.

Yet, retiring did not occupy a significant portion of his head long enough. After a heart-wrenching loss in 1993 of his much-loved Evelyn, who also worked in the store after their youngest went to school, and a friendly face on Federal Hill, Alan Costantino took a bold move to rekindle Emil’s flame for developing something new: the first Venda, an Italian gourmet store centralized on the corner of De Pasquale Plaza. Once again, Emil enchanted buyers with his variety of offerings and contagious passion for quality, proving that good taste, much like fine Italian wine, ages and enriches with age.

He did it all with his trademark smile and contagious enthusiasm for food and people.

When Emil passed away in 1996, his remarkable impact on the vibrant community life in Federal Hill was undeniable. He played a vital role in shaping a strong and connected community.

Emil and Giuseppe Fioravanti, 1976

He was more than a grocery store owner. He was a steward of fond memories, a sophisticated connoisseur who not only savored but understood profoundly rich textures of life, and a strong pillar of warm community life that effectively consolidated its citizens into one harmonious whole. That impact, lasting and profound, continues to simmer and resonate through the actual atmosphere of Federal Hill, in which a granite marker proudly adorns the sidewalk at 162-164 Atwells Avenue in tribute to the illustrious name of Fioravanti.

Even when its actual store no longer stands, having been replaced by parts of the city’s ever-changing silhouette, rich stories, deep heritage, and the mouthwatering aroma of Italy that Emil shared with such joy and devotion, it continues to flourish and survive in each conversation shared between citizens, and in each family dish that has been tenderly handed down through innumerable hands over many years.

The Fioravanti Market’s engraved legacy remains intact on the Atwells Avenue sidewalk, a remainder of iconic memories.

So, then, as you stroll through the heart of Federal Hill, I urge you to stop for a mere moment and remember for yourself, at least, the extraordinary fellow who bore warm, golden eyes, a heart full of passion and compassion, a man who, in his billfold next to a photograph of Evelyn, kept a folded slip of paper that said in Italian, “La vita sulla terra deve essere vissuta” (Life on earth is meant to be lived)

As a close friend and confidant of Emil once said in a 1983 Providence Journal article about Emil and his life, “What they have, you don’t see much of.” And no doubt, Emil A. Fioravanti had it all—along with an unbreakable will represented in the extraordinary textures for whose sake he struggled with unrelenting will and a strong determination to build a strong and supportive community that included everyone in its midst.

Article, Providence Journal, November, 1983

Today, as I compile this simple tribute, I will become a better person. I am thankful that I met one person who opened the doors and expanded the culinary horizons in this city to many of us.

Contributors: Master Chef Walter Potenza and the Fioravanti family (Joseph, Emil, Robert, Ann Marie (Iannazzi) and Paul Fioravanti).

Chef Walters Culinary Tourism / Tours 2025

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Chef Walter is featured HERE every Sunday with his regular Ask Chef Walter column!

Meet Chef Walter!

There is a constant, recognizable thread in the career of Walter Potenza to elevate the level of Italian culinary culture in the United States. Besides his unquestionable culinary talent and winning business perspective, Chef Walter has been a relentless educator with passion and knowledge who defeats stereotypes. His life, career, and values are a model, an example to follow by any chef of Italian gastronomy working outside Italy.  

Chef Walter appears regularly on National and International Networks such as Food Network, ABC, CBS, NBC, RAI, FOX, and Publications such as NY. Times, Washington Post, Wall Street Journal, Food & Wine, Saveur, Gourmet, and several Italian media outlets.  And now “RINewsToday!