Ask Chef Walter: Legendary history of the Sicilian Cannolo – Walter Potenza

by Executive Chef Walter Potenza

Hello RINT friends:

Johnathan C. from Alberta, Canada asked about the Sicilian Cannoli. 

Here we go Johnathan! 

The Sicilian cannolo, also known as “cannolo alla Siciliana,” is one of the most acclaimed Sicilian desserts and a real star of the island’s culinary art and is highly esteemed and appreciated throughout the world.

The “cannolo alla Siciliana” comprises a fried and crispy wafer made with soft wheat flour, Marsala liqueur, sugar, and lard. The traditional filling consists of sifted and sweetened sheep’s ricotta cheese. Its uniqueness lies precisely in the fresh ricotta cheese, which must be Sicilian sheep’s cheese. 

The name of the Sicilian cannolo comes from an ancient tradition. Until a few decades ago, the wafer dough was rolled up around river reeds (canne in Italian), thus giving it its classic cylindrical shape. However, in compliance with modern hygiene laws, the dough is wrapped in small metal tubes.

The legendary history of the Sicilian cannolo revisited.

At the time of ancient Rome, an ancestor of the cannolo made its first appearance. In fact, in 70 BC, Cicerone spoke about a “Tubus farinarius dulcissimo edulio ex lacte fartus,” a tube of flour filled with soft milk cream. However, according to the most recognized tradition, its origins have their ancient roots in the Arab domination of Sicily (from 827 to 1091) intertwined with myths and legends.

The cannolo was born in the town of Caltanissetta, in the center of Sicily, then known as Qal’at al-Nissa, which means “the castle of the women.” 

The profane story states that the Sicilian cannolo was first created inside the Castle of Caltanissetta, where the Emir lived with his mistresses. 

Instead, the holy version makes go back to the birth of the cannolo alla Siciliana to a convent in Caltanissetta, where some funny nuns played jokes on turned into novices or a priest on the occasion of the Carnival. They filled a tub with ricotta cream and replaced the water valves with a wafer of cannoli.

Fun facts. In 2014 a weather balloon was launched into the stratosphere, reproducing this delicious dessert. And since 2021, the Sicilian cannolo has been embedded on the collectible 5-euro coins. (Trusted) 

GOOD RECIPE FOR YOU TO TRY

If you are in Taormina, Sicily please seek La Pignolata, the best cannoli in the city. 

Via Apollo Arcageta 15, Taormina, Italy. – T+39 333 376 6821

___

Flavors + Knowledge Editorial Board SimVal Media Group USA