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Ask Chef Walter: Sfogliatella, by the Glorious Nun’s Hands – Walter Potenza
September 8, 2025/
Friends:
The sfogliatella masterpiece created by Sister Clotilde, continues to captivate palates and charm gluttons after 400 or so years.
Many of our readers asked about this traditional sweet from Naples, and here you have it!
The Sfogliatella is an iconic pastry that has gained worldwide recognition and a special place in the Neapolitan confectionery world. Its history is fascinating, and exploring its roots and the many variations that have emerged over time is a thrilling journey through the evolution of this culinary masterpiece.
The origins of the Sfogliatella can be traced back to the Santa Rosa Monastery, located on the Amalfi Coast between Conca dei Marini and Furore. Although similar preparations existed in the 16th century and possibly earlier, it is believed that Sister Clotilde, a cloistered nun, invented the Sfogliatella or its precursor in the 1600s.
According to legend, Sister Clotilde used semolina, ricotta, milk, dried fruit, sugar, and a dash of liqueur to create a mouth-watering filling perfect for encasing in dough. The nuns began selling the Santa Rosa to generate income, and it quickly became popular with the locals.
Innkeeper Pasquale Pintauro recognized Santa Rosa’s potential and transformed it into the Sfogliatella, known today as the breccia. Although the exact details of how he obtained the recipe are unknown, he likely analyzed the dessert and gave it his unique touch, resulting in the Sfogliatella we know and love today.
The classic riccia Sfogliatella is characterized by its crunchy puff pastry, which resembles a thick conical spiral. This pastry envelops a filling that pays homage to its monastic origins. The filling comprises ricotta, semolina, sugar, eggs, candied fruit, and natural flavorings. Today’s market version of the classic riccia has evolved to include custard and black cherries.
The Sfogliatella family extends beyond the classic riccia, with one of the earliest variants being the short crust pastry version. Distinguished by its use of short crust pastry while retaining the same luscious filling, this variant has a devoted following.
Over time, the surge in Neapolitan tourism and the need for diversification in offerings led to many interpretations, particularly in fillings. Sweet variations featuring creams like pistachio, chocolate, and coffee, and savory renditions with ragù, salami, and ricotta, and eggplant (aubergine) Parmigiana have emerged, showcasing the adaptability of this iconic pastry.
The Sfogliatella has rightfully earned its place as a standard-bearer of Neapolitan confectionery tradition, encapsulating centuries of culinary artistry.
A fitting maxim captures the sentiment:
Naples has three beautiful things: ‘o sea, ‘o Vesuvius, and ‘e Sfugliatelle,” solidifying the Sfogliatella’s status as an integral and proud segment of the cultural and gastronomic heritage of Naples.
Here’s the recipe.
Note on Difficulty
Sfogliatella is famously a project for experienced bakers. The process is time-consuming and requires patience, especially when rolling the dough to paper-thinness. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempt isn’t perfect—the delicious, flaky result is worth the effort!
This recipe makes approximately 12-15 pastries.
Part 1: The Filling (Semolina Cream – Crema di Semolina)
This needs to be made first so it has plenty of time to cool completely.
Ingredients:
500 ml (2 cups + 2 tbsp) whole milk
100 g (½ cup) fine semolina flour
150 g (¾ cup) granulated sugar
1 large egg
2 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 teaspoon lemon zest
125 g (4.5 oz) whole milk ricotta cheese, drained and sieved
50 g (â…“ cup) candied citrus peel (cedro or orange), finely chopped
A pinch of salt
A pinch of cinnamon (optional, traditional in some recipes)
Instructions:
Cook the Semolina: In a medium saucepan, heat the milk and sugar over medium heat until it just begins to simmer. Slowly whisk in the semolina flour to avoid lumps. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for about 5-7 minutes until the mixture becomes very thick. Remove from heat.
Temper the Eggs: In a separate bowl, whisk the whole egg, egg yolks, vanilla, zests, and salt. While whisking constantly, slowly add a ladleful of the hot semolina mixture to the egg mixture to temper it (this prevents scrambling).
Combine: Pour the tempered egg mixture back into the saucepan with the remaining semolina. Return to low heat and cook for another 2-3 minutes, stirring non-stop, until the cream is even thicker.
Finish: Remove from heat and stir in the sieved ricotta and candied peel. Mix until perfectly smooth.
Cool: Spread the crema onto a plate or baking sheet, cover directly with plastic wrap (to prevent a skin from forming), and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or preferably overnight. It must be completely cold and firm.
Part 2: The Dough & Lamination
Ingredients:
500 g (4 cups + 1 tbsp) “00” flour or all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
5 g (1 tsp) fine sea salt
200 ml (¾ cup + 1 tbsp) water
50 g (¼ cup) honey or sugar (honey is traditional for flavor)
150 g (10½ tbsp) unsalted butter, very soft (almost melted)
150 g (10½ tbsp) lard or vegetable shortening, very soft (lard is traditional for flakiness)
Optional: 1-2 tbsp of white wine or rum
Instructions:
Make the Dough: In a stand mixer with a dough hook, combine the flour and salt. Mix the water and honey (and wine/rum if using) and add to the flour. Mix on low speed until a very firm, dry dough forms. If it’s too dry, add water 1 teaspoon at a time. It should be tougher than pasta dough.
Knead: Knead the dough by machine for 10 minutes, or by hand on a floured surface for 15 minutes, until smooth and elastic. It will be very stiff.
Rest: Wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature for 1 hour. This relaxes the gluten.
Divide and Roll: Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the others covered.
Roll Thin: Using a pasta machine, roll the dough. Start at the widest setting and gradually move to the next setting, folding and rolling until you reach the second-thinnest setting. The sheet should be almost transparent. You should be able to see the outline of your hand through it. Lightly dust with flour only if absolutely necessary to prevent sticking.
First Buttering: Lay the long, thin sheet of dough on a lightly floured surface. Using a pastry brush or your hands, generously coat the entire surface with a thin layer of the softened butter and lard mixture.
Roll into a Log: Starting from one short end, gently but tightly roll the dough into a log, like a jelly roll. Don’t roll it too tightly, or the layers will fuse. Wrap this log in plastic wrap. Repeat steps 4-7 with the remaining three pieces of dough. You will now have 4 logs.
Chill: Refrigerate the logs for at least 1 hour to firm up. (At this point, the logs can be frozen for up to a month. Thaw in the fridge before using.)
Part 3: Assembling the Sfogliatelle
You’ll also need:
Egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp water)
Powdered sugar for dusting
Instructions:
Slice the Log: Take one chilled log and use a sharp serrated knife to slice it into ¾-inch (2 cm) thick discs. You will see the beautiful concentric circles of dough.
Form the Shell: Take one disc and place it in the palm of your floured hand. Using your thumbs, press into the center of the spiral and gently work the dough outward, rotating it to create a cone-shaped shell. The goal is to create a hollow center while maintaining the layered structure on the outside. It should look like a small clam shell. Place the formed shell on a parchment-lined baking sheet and cover with a damp cloth while you shape the rest.
Fill: Take a heaping tablespoon of the chilled, firm filling. Using a small spoon or a piping bag, carefully fill the shell. Do not overfill. Gently press the edges together to seal it shut. It should have its classic seashell shape. Repeat with all discs.
Part 4: Baking
Preheat your oven to 200°C (400°F).
Arrange the filled sfogliatelle on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, leaving about 1 inch between them.
Brush the tops lightly with egg wash. This will give them a beautiful golden color.
Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the pastries are golden brown and the layers are visibly puffed and flaky.
Remove from the oven and let them cool on a wire rack for at least 15-20 minutes. They will be molten hot inside!
Dust generously with powdered sugar before serving. They are best enjoyed warm or at room temperature on the day they are made.
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