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Ask Chef Walter: It’s Hanukkah! Latkes and more – Walter Potenza
It’s all about fried food for Hanukkah. But it doesn’t have to be just latkes
Friends:
The celebration of Chanukah represents a special moment for the Jewish community. It encompasses the story of a miracle and the profound meaning of spiritual resilience. Although it is a holiday of Jewish origin, Chanukah is part of the Italian cultural mosaic, in which different communities have intertwined for centuries.
Let’s explore the history of Chanukah, its meaning, and how this holiday is celebrated in Italy, with a particular focus on culinary traditions.
The History of Chanukah Chanukah, also known as the Festival of Lights, commemorates an event that occurred more than two thousand years ago in the Land of Israel. In 165 BC, during the rule of the Seleucid Empire, King Antiochus IV attempted to impose Hellenistic culture and religion on the Jews. This caused a revolt led by a small band of fighters called the Maccabees.
Despite being significantly outnumbered, the Maccabees defeated the Seleucid army and reconquered the desecrated Temple of Jerusalem. According to tradition, when the Jews returned to the Temple, they found only a tiny amount of purified oil to light the candelabrum, the Menorah. Miraculously, that oil, sufficient for just one day, lasted eight days, the time needed to produce new oil.
This prodigious event is the basis of the celebration of Chanukah, which lasts eight days and is celebrated by lighting a candle every day from the candelabrum.”
The Meaning of Chanukah: Chanukah symbolizes spiritual resistance and the fight for religious freedom. It is a celebration of light emerging from darkness, of hope against oppression. In Jewish tradition, Chanukah represents the victory of light over darkness, not only in a physical sense but also in a spiritual sense.
The light of the Menorah symbolizes the divine presence, the power of faith, and the continuity of Jewish tradition despite adversity. In Italy, as in other parts of the world, the holiday is celebrated with particular joy, with songs, prayers, and the exchange of gifts, especially for children. In synagogues and homes, blessings are recited every evening before lighting candles, and the traditional hymn “Maoz Tzur” is sung, celebrating divine protection.
Chanukah in Italy: The Jewish communities in Italy, from Rome to Milan, from Florence to Venice, are deeply rooted in the country’s history. Although Judaism in Italy dates back over two thousand years, Chanukah maintains its charm and vitality in most of the 23 still existing ghettos or Jewish congregations.
In Rome, the marvelous Menorah in Piazza Barberini is lit every year. It is a powerful symbol of unity and rebirth, bringing community and hope to all who witness it. As with many other Jewish holidays, Chanukah, in particular, has its culinary traditions, with food playing a central role and dishes often symbolic.
During this time, it is customary to eat fried foods to remember the miracle of the oil that burned for eight days. Among the most popular dishes are latkes, potato pancakes served with sour cream or applesauce, sufganiyot, soft doughnuts filled with jam, fried and dusted with sugar. Many traditional Chanukah dishes are mixed with influences from the local cuisine and adapted to match the flavors of the locals, like the bomboloni.
Fried Bomboloni {Image Attribution via Chef Roberto Revel}
In Rome, for example, Judeo-Roman cuisine includes fried artichokes and cauliflower fritters during Chanukah, which are part of the ancient Jewish traditions of the Capital. In the Jewish community of Livorno, famous for its Sephardic kosher cuisine, sweet pancakes similar to sufganiyot are prepared. Still, they are often enriched with local flavors such as raisins and pine nuts.
Cartellate from Puglia Recipe from Le Cesarine
In Puglia especially, sweets based on honey and almonds are prepared, inspired by ancient Mediterranean Jewish culinary traditions. This shows how rich and diverse Chanukah cuisine in Italy is, influenced by the various Jewish communities that have settled there over the centuries and still flourish.
Latkes made with butternut squash are a delightful twist on the traditional potato variety. They bring a touch of natural sweetness and vibrant color to the table. Butternut squash adds a creamy texture and nutty flavor that pairs beautifully with the crispy exterior of a well-fried latke.
Butternut Squash and Sage Latkes with Brown Butter Drizzle
Ingredients:
3 cups butternut squash, peeled and grated (about one medium squash)
One large yellow onion, grated
Two large eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 cup all-purpose flour (or matzo meal)
One teaspoon of kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Two tablespoons fresh sage, finely chopped
Vegetable oil for frying (such as canola or sunflower oil)
For the Brown Butter Drizzle:
Four tablespoons unsalted butter
Two teaspoons honey
Pinch of salt
Optional Garnishes
Fresh sage leaves, fried
Sour cream or crème fraîche
Instructions:
- Prepare the Latke Mixture:Grate the butternut squash and onion using a box grater or food processor.Place the grated squash and onion in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out as much liquid as possible.Transfer to a large bowl and add the beaten eggs, flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped sage. Mix until well combined.
- Fry the Latkes:Heat about 1/4 inch of vegetable oil over medium-high heat in a large skillet until shimmering.Scoop two tablespoons of the mixture and form it into a patty. Carefully place it into the hot oil.Fry until golden and crispy, about 3–4 minutes per side.Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and sprinkle with some salt while still hot.
- Make the Brown Butter Drizzle:Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Let it cook, swirling occasionally, until it turns golden brown and smells nutty (about 3–4 minutes).Remove from heat, add the honey and a pinch of salt, and stir well.
- Serve:Drizzle the warm brown butter sauce over the latkes.Garnish with fried sage leaves and a dollop of sour cream or crème fraîche if desired.
Tips for Extra Flair:
Fried Sage Garnish: Quickly fry whole sage leaves in hot oil for a crispy, aromatic garnish. While you finish frying the batches, keep the latkes warm in a 250°F (120°C) oven. These latkes pair beautifully with crisp white wine or sparkling cider.
This creative twist on traditional latkes offers a beautiful combination of sweet, savory, and nutty flavors—a modern way to celebrate the miracle of Hanukkah!
Synopsis
Chanukah in Italy is a celebration rich in history, spirituality, and culinary traditions. Through lighting candles, sharing delicious foods, and renewing faith, this holiday represents a moment of unity for the Italian Jewish community. At the same time, it reflects the broader context of coexistence and integration that has characterized Jewish life in Italy for centuries, where culture, religion, and cuisine are intertwined harmoniously and uniquely.
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There is a constant, recognizable thread in the career of Walter Potenza to elevate the level of Italian culinary culture in the United States. Besides his unquestionable culinary talent and winning business perspective, Chef Walter has been a relentless educator with passion and knowledge who defeats stereotypes. His life, career, and values are a model, an example to follow by any chef of Italian gastronomy working outside Italy.
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